Tool

Tube Picker

Tell us your wheels and tires — we'll tell you exactly what tubes (and valve length) to buy.

Rim depth: 50mm
Internal width: 20mm
Used on: Canyon Ultimate CF SLX, Canyon Ultimate CF SL
Width: 25mm
Type: Clincher

Tire-to-rim fit

Tire may sit too narrow on a 20mm internal rim (suggested 28–48mm).

Valve recommendation

Valve type
Presta
Recommended length
80mm
Rim depth
50mm

80mm valve recommended — or use a valve extender.

Recommended tubes

Continental Race 28 Light
Butyl (light) • Presta • Fits 20–25mm • 65g
Race day on shallow/mid wheels
Find it
Continental Race 28
Butyl (standard) • Presta • Fits 20–25mm • 100g
Daily training
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Vittoria Competition Latex
Latex • Presta • Fits 25–28mm • 75g
Race day — lowest rolling resistance
Find it
Tubolito S-Tubo Road
TPU (ultralight) • Presta • Fits 18–32mm • 23g
Race day & spare in jersey pocket
Find it

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Quick rules of thumb

  • Valve length should be at least 15–20mm longer than your rim depth.
  • Tubeless setups don't need tubes day-to-day, but always carry a TPU spare.
  • TPU tubes (Tubolito, Aerothan, SmarTube) save 50–80g per wheel vs. butyl.
  • Latex tubes have the lowest rolling resistance but lose ~10–15 psi overnight.
  • Most modern road tires (25–32mm) work best on rims with 19–25mm internal width.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size inner tube do I need for my tires?

Match the tube to your tire width range and wheel diameter — for example a 700x25c tire needs a 700c tube rated for roughly 23–28mm. Select your wheelset and tire above and the tool returns the exact tube size and valve length.

How long should my valve stem be for deep-section wheels?

Your valve should be at least 15–20mm longer than the rim depth. A 65mm deep rim needs an 80mm valve, a 50mm rim needs a 60–70mm valve, and a shallow 30mm rim works with a standard 60mm valve.

Are TPU tubes worth it for triathlon?

Yes for most racers. TPU tubes such as Tubolito, Schwalbe Aerothan and RideNow save 50–80g per wheel, pack down to a fraction of the size of a butyl spare and roll marginally faster. Butyl remains the cheaper, more durable training option.

Do I need a tube if I run tubeless tires?

Yes — carry one as a spare. Sealant and a plug fix most punctures, but a large cut or a torn bead means fitting a tube to get home, so keep a compact TPU tube and a valve-core tool in your saddle bag.

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Updated

What the tube picker can narrow down

The tube picker matches a selection of wheelsets and tire widths to a shortlist of inner tubes and a suggested valve length. It is a starting filter based on the tool’s stored catalog, not a fit guarantee. Wheel models, tire sizes, rim depths, valve designs, and manufacturer approvals can change. The page cannot inspect the markings on your tire or rim and does not verify every year or variant of a named bicycle. Confirm the exact part specifications before ordering or installing anything.

An inner tube must suit the tire’s actual diameter and a compatible width range. Valve type must match the rim hole, and valve length must allow a pump head to attach securely with enough stem exposed. A deep rim may require a longer valve or an approved extender. Tubeless-ready systems add another question: whether your rim and tire are being used tubeless or with a tube, and what each manufacturer permits. The tool’s recommendation is only useful after those interfaces are known.

Read the size printed on the tire first

Look for the complete size marking on the tire sidewall, not only a marketing name such as “28 mm.” A tire may have a traditional inch or French label alongside an ISO / ETRTO marking that includes nominal width and bead-seat diameter. The diameter is essential: a tube with the right width but wrong diameter will not be a safe match. Actual inflated tire width can also differ from its printed nominal size depending on rim width, pressure, and casing. Use the complete marking and the tire manufacturer’s compatibility chart.

Next inspect the rim documentation for internal width, hook or hookless design, and valve-hole type. Do not infer those details solely from wheel depth or brand. If a tire and rim combination is not listed as permitted, do not use the picker’s broad fit range to override the manufacturer. Schwalbe’s tube range and compatibility catalog is one example of a manufacturer reference for its own tube products; use the documentation for the brands and models you own.

Choose a valve that works with your rim

Presta and Schrader valves are different standards and require a compatible rim hole or an approved reducer arrangement. Measure rim depth at the valve location and compare it with the manufacturer’s recommended exposed valve length. A stem that barely reaches the rim edge can make inflation awkward; a very long stem can be vulnerable or require careful handling. Extenders also vary by type and installation method. Check whether your pump head connects to the valve or extender you plan to use and whether the assembly can be inspected for leaks.

The picker’s valve suggestion uses simple depth bands, such as a shorter valve for shallow rims and progressively longer choices for deeper rims. Those bands do not account for every rim profile, valve nut, pump head, extender, or disc-wheel design. If the wheel maker specifies a particular length or extender, follow that documentation. Test inflation at home before travel and carry a compatible spare setup. A tube can match a tire yet still be difficult to inflate with the valve arrangement you selected.

Treat the built-in fit range as a candidate, not a certification

The tool’s generic tire-to-rim-width check uses an internal-width ratio as a rough screen. Tire and rim compatibility depends on approved combinations and applicable standards, not a single universal ratio. The tire may measure wider than nominal once mounted. Hookless rims have additional restrictions and maximum pressure limits; a tube does not cancel those restrictions. Do not install a combination that falls outside the tire or rim maker’s published compatibility range, and do not use a calculator message that says “good fit” as proof of approval.

Before fitting a tube, inspect the rim tape, valve hole, tire casing, bead, and any embedded debris. Confirm the tube is not twisted or trapped under the bead. Inflate gradually and check the tire is seated evenly around both sides. If you are unsure, have a qualified mechanic complete the installation. After a roadside repair, recheck pressure and handling cautiously before returning to traffic or a race course. The tool cannot see damage, installation quality, or whether the tire itself should be replaced.

Keep a spare that matches your actual setup

Write the tire size, tube model or compatible size range, valve type, valve length, and wheel model in your repair notes. Carry the correct pump, inflator, levers, and any adapter the valve needs. Practice the repair on the wheel you will ride, because a deep-section wheel, tight tire, or unfamiliar valve extender can change the process. Check race rules before carrying pressurized cartridges or tools in transport.

Use the tire-pressure calculator only after verifying the tire and rim combination and their limits. The gear builder can remind you to include repair equipment, and the cost calculator can help plan a realistic replacement or maintenance budget. The picker can shorten a product search, but the final decision should be traceable to markings and manufacturer instructions. If those details disagree with the tool’s candidate, trust the exact equipment documentation and seek a mechanic’s help.

A pre-purchase compatibility checklist

Before ordering, record the full tire marking, the wheel model and year if known, rim internal width, valve type, and rim depth at the valve hole. Search the component makers’ current documentation for the permitted tire sizes and pressure limits. Compare the tube maker’s stated width range with the tire size; do not infer fit from a product title that shows only one number. Check whether the listed valve length is measured from the base or another reference point, and whether the pump head or extender will work with it.

If you cannot find the wheel or tire combination in manufacturer documentation, ask the wheel or tire maker or a qualified mechanic. Be cautious with advice that relies on a generic fit ratio or a compatibility chart for a different model year. A tube’s stretch can accommodate a range of widths only within its stated specification; it cannot correct a tire/rim mismatch. Save the answer and use the same exact setup in training so you can find a leak, confirm inflation, and practise the repair before a race or long ride.

Understand the estimate, then act

Review the assumptions behind this planning aid before using the result, then continue to the most relevant practical step.